Saturday, March 19, 2005

Snubbed by the chief

We're beginning to learn that time is not a fixed idea here. If we ask for transport at 7am, expect it by 10. Our first order of business is to meet with Paramount Chief, Daniel Pulayasi of Omarakana Village. Malinowski's first round of fieldwork was spent there living alongside the chief at that time, Chief Touluwa. On our way, we imagine Zach and the chief holding out their hands to each other, perhaps touching eachother's faces, shedding a tear. Chief Pulayasi, fourth generation in Touluwa's line and Zach the great grandson of Malinowski, would share stories about their ancestors today.

But when we arrive in Omarakana, the chief has just gone to the garden. When they send someone to get him, he refuses to come. Is this a bad omen for the project? The chief of the entire island has refused to meet with us. Shit. Linus assures us that he will meet with us in the next few days but we can't quite shake the feeling of foreboding. Kelly comes up with the brilliant idea of sending the chief betelnut, the coveted green nuts that every trobriander (maybe everyone in PNG) chews with lime. We purchase a huge bunch of juicy nuts and send them along with the hope that there is better news to come.

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